For the railing system, I utilized a V-Slot Gantry System from Open Builds Part Store.
The rails are made of aluminum, the X-axis is 40 inches long and the Y-axis is 20 inches.
Here is the material breakdown for one of the rails (Y-axis 20 inches):
| Qty. | Description |
| 4 | Low Profile Screws – 25mm |
| 2 | Double Tee Nuts |
| 2 | Aluminum Spacer – 6mm |
| 4 | Low Profile Screws – 8mm |
| 1 | GT2 (2mm) Aluminum Timing Pulley – 30 Tooth |
| 2 | Eccentric Spacers |
| 4 | Delrin Solid V Wheel Kit |
| 1 | Smooth Idler Pulley Kit |
| 1 | Idler Pulley Plate |
| 1 | Motor Mount Plate for Nema 17 Stepper Motor |
| 4 | Cable Ties – 4″ (4 Single Cable Ties) |
| 1 | Aluminum Spacer – 3mm |
| 1 | V-Slot Gantry Plate (20mm) |
| 4 | M3 Socket Head Screws (4 Singles) |
| 1 | GT2 Timing Belt |
| 1 | V-Slot 20mm x 40mm Length 500mm |
| 1 | Nema 17 Stepper Motor |
Step-by-step Build of the First Rail
- Parts of the rail
- Step 1
- Step 2
- Step 3
- Step 4
- Step 5
- Step 6
- Step 7
- Step 8
- Step 9
- Step 10
- Step 11
- Step 12
- Step 13
- Step 14
- Step 15
- Step 16
- Step 17
- Step 18
- Step 19
- Step 20
- Step 21
- Final Build
Once I finished assembling one of the railing system, I started planning on how to put together the other railing. So one assembled railing (Y-axis) will sit on top of the other railing system (X-axis). This way, the gantry plate carrying the magnets can move in all directions (left, right, up, down, diagonal). I 3D modeled a bracket that would join and hold the rails together. And then using Tee Nuts and screws, I fastened the rails.
The Final Build of Rails
- Final Rail Plan
- Join Corners
- Join Center
- Online Research of 90Degree Plate
- Technical Drawing of 90Degree Plate
- 90Degree Plate 3D Model View2
- Online Research of L-Bracket
- Technical Drawing of L-Bracket
- L-Bracket 3D Model View1
- T-nuts and screws
- Final Build
I then decided to build an enclosure for the railing system, the goal is to cover the gantry so that it gives it a magic essence when interacting with the ferrofluid. I used 4’x8′ Birch Plywood from Home Depot and secured all the sides using an electric staple gun. For the top frame, my advisor suggested to create a lip where we can slide in the tank and it will sit in smoothly. I used a CNC machine to create the lip.
Rail Enclosure
- Birch Plywood Material
- Top Frame measurement in inches
- 3D View of Top Frame
- Final Rail Enclosure
For the glass tank, I used Lexan MR5, a polycarbonate sheet. The measurement of the tank is 30″x15″x4″. One of the challenges for this tank was to make it water-tight. At first, I tried using Acrylics adhesive, a clear water-thin solvent cement to glue the sides together, but it did not stick. Then I got some epoxy glue, and using a syringe applied it to all the sides and left it for a couple of hours to dry. Came back to check on it and it was holding together. To seal it, I used clear silicone caulk on all the sides and left it for over 24 hours to dry. The next day, I filled the tank full of water and left it for a few hours to check if it would leak. It was all good. I got my water-tight tank.
Glass Tank
- Lexan MR5 Polycarbonate Sheet
- Epoxy 5 minute glue
- Silicone Sealing
- Water-tight Tank
Back to Process





















































